We provide lab-to-market services to cosmetics companies and manufacturers of personal care products in search of innovative ways to improve product efficacy and meet consumer demand for innovations and new and better-performing products.

Our cutting-edge microencapsulation technology draws on science to create high-performing cosmetic formulations with customised delivery mechanisms. It opens up possibilities for new and innovative cosmetic and skincare solutions and novel user experiences.

All microencapsulation technologies seek to mask the unpleasant odours of certain ingredients and protect active substances from degradation, thereby stabilising and maintaining their benefits. However, our approach to microencapsulation offers more than that.

We are pioneering programmed-shell microcapsules with a controlled release function, a new way to deliver active substances. By selecting appropriate biocompatible and biodegradable polymers, we protect the encapsulated substance, which looks like powder to the naked eye and ensure its release on demand.

Our advanced microencapsulation technology increases formulation capacity, enhances active ingredient performance and enables the creation of products with specific features and benefits. For example, our microcapsules keep the ingredients locked up, but once they get warmed up as they are in touch with the skin, they break open and release the ingredients. We can also make our microcapsules sensitive to the pressure generated by rubbing the product into the skin or sensitive to the difference in acidity between the microcapsules and the skin. The ingredient’s effects are only activated when in use, preserving their potency.

Microencapsulation can also be used for cosmetic textiles designed to transfer active substances for cosmetic purposes. The cosmetic ingredients are incorporated into the fabric of the clothing so that the natural movements of the body make the microcapsules break open and release active substances, making the skin slowly moisturised or have a pleasant smell, depending on the sought-after effect.

Formulation instability

Maintaining stability is a challenging task for any cosmetic formulator. Many active ingredients lose their properties during the production process and storage. Customers may subject products to changes in temperature, moisture and humidity, bumps and shocks. Products can be exposed to air, sun or light or undergo pressure changes during the flight. Achieving stability is one of the most important goals for any formulator, as high stability results in longer shelf-life and better product performance.

Cosmetics and personal care products can degrade, oxidise (like many antioxidants, such as retinol), evaporate (like essential oils and fragrances) or start separating over time. Their smell and colour can change too. Not only does the degradation of active ingredients make the product ineffective, but it can also become irritating or even toxic.

If the formulation starts to lose its colour or when the nature of the scent changes, this could be a sign of chemical or microbial changes in the product and in general, this is a sign of cosmetic product instability. Also, if the formulation’s pH shifts over time, it may render the preservative inactive, leave the product open to microbial contamination and even cause damage to the skin. Maintaining a product’s fragrance, colour and the correct pH throughout its shelf-life is critical to ensuring stability.

Interactions

Mixing various ingredients is a key step in the formulation process, and it is often a bigger challenge than it seems. Every additional ingredient in a formula increases the chance of unwanted interaction with another ingredient. This can result in stability problems which are much more difficult to solve in the presence of several active substances.

Interactions can also occur between the packaging material (container) and the formulation (content), which may impact a cosmetic product’s quality, efficacy and safety.

Unpleasant odour or colour of some ingredients

The consumer demand for natural ingredients in cosmetics products is on the rise. Many active substances, such as herbal extracts and essential oils, have great potential for usage in the cosmetics industry due to their beneficial properties: But their odour may become a barrier and a challenge for a formulator.

Sometimes the formulation challenges can be partially solved by packaging, chemical modifications, and adding preservatives. But these can limit the effectiveness of the final product, add extra costs and increase the risk of adverse reactions. Microencapsulation enables companies to overcome these challenges and add value to their products.

One of the main reasons to use microencapsulation is its ability to increase the stability of active substances to maintain their efficacy and safety. Microencapsulation provides optimal protection against many degrading factors, such as heat, sunlight, moisture, oxidation, pH, evaporation or incompatibility and interactions with other ingredients during the final product’s production, storage and application, thus eliminating the stability issues. Microencapsulation prevents the loss of volatile ingredients, solving the problem of the high volatility of fragrances and prolonging aroma release in a controlled manner.

The renewed consumer interest in natural cosmetic products creates a demand for new ingredients, which do not always have a pleasant smell or even colour. Microencapsulation masks the smell and colour of active substances, offering the potential for the cosmetics and personal care industry to extend the range of ingredients.

Most active substances do not penetrate into deeper layers of the skin and stay on the surface. Microencapsulation can improve dermal penetration of active ingredients for greater effectiveness.

But the most important advantage of our advanced microencapsulation technology is its controlled release function. The release-on-demand mechanism ensures effective, controlled and safe means of reaching the target site within the skin and gives manufacturers a tool to develop new and innovative formulations. Active ingredients can be released by several mechanisms. For example, deodorants can be designed in such a way that their action is increased during the period of excessive perspiration. In addition, the action can be increased by adding microcapsules with antifungal and antibacterial compounds to prevent the activity of these microorganisms.

A similar effect can be applied to UV filters. They can become activated when sun exposure increases. For perfume, a slow-release mechanism allows fragrances to be released over a more extended period of time. Alternatively, they can be released upon mechanical action (“scratch and sniff” perfume). These are just a few examples; there are much more other options.

Share with us your challenges and ideas. Partner with us to create customised proprietary technologies tailored to your needs and design unique and innovative cosmetics formulations. Our team of experts will help you translate your vision of the ideal product into a real product that is effective and a pleasure to use.